Recife – half modern, half historical.

I arrived in Recife around 19.30 and took the metro to Joana Bezerra where I changed to a bus to Boa Viagem, where my host lives. I was surprised they have metro here!! Yay! And it worked so fine. It even announced how much time it was left for it to come! Haha.

Apparently Recife’s infrastructure is among the most developed in Brazil for travellers and business people.

I found the building where my host lives – huge complex, he lives at the 14th floor with a cool view over other sky scrapers and the beach (all though you don’t see the beach at night). And Jose was supernice! Like the first second he gave me a map over Recife and showed me some different attractions and how to get there and I liked him immediately.

His apartment is so nice too, filled with travel photos on the walls and different souvenirs from all the countries he has been to. A well traveled and experienced couchsurfer and host :)

 Boa Viagem at night

Boa Viagem at night, view from the balcony!

My host José aka Zé and his reaally nice wall of travel photos

My host José aka Zé and part of his wall of travel photos

My hosts living room :)

My hosts living room :)

We prepared some dinner, a nice sallad of fresh mozzarella, tomato, balsam vinegar, carrots and warm bread in the oven.  We talked a lot and then around 12ish I went to sleep, so tired! Haha.

Next morning I had some breakfast looking out over the buildings and the sea and then went to Olinda (where I’ve already posted from).

Taking care of the plats in the balcony :)

Taking care of the plats in the balcony :)

Good morning Recife!

Good morning Recife!

Recife is the fifth-largest metropolitan area in Brazil, with about 3,8 million inhabitants. It’s the capital of the state of Pernambuco.

Recife is a major port on the Atlantic Ocean. Its name comes from the coral reefs that are present by the city’s shores. On wikipedia they say Recife is like ”the Brazilian Venice” because of the many rivers, small islands and over 50 bridges found in Recife city center. But I didn’t really find it that way.

The city of Recife is formed by three islands. I walked between two of them, where the historical center and the city center is. I visited a nice handcraft market and tried to find the ”important buildings” in the historical center, but I couldn’t find it really. I had a map but I wasn’t sure if that was the right building or not.. haha. But there are a few nice churches and colorful buildings, which I always enjoy :) Hehe.

The sculpture park at the port is made of Francisco Brennand

The sculpture park at the port is made of Francisco Brennand

Some houses by the harbour

Some houses by the harbour

A street in the historical center. I like the round christmas light and the shade of the trees :)

A street in the historical center. I like the round christmas light and the shade of the trees :)

 

The artisanian market

The main hand craft market

Such a nice work. You might not notice the details....

Such a nice work. You might not notice the details….

...But here you see a close up :)

…But here you see a close up :)

 

Plenty plenty of churches here though. I talked to some people and they are very friendly here, but so stressed. There is people and shops everywhere, and people walking around. Everyone seems like they know where they are going and that they are in a hurry. Is not really ”just walking around and chilling”. I wanted to sit down somewhere just to chill, but I couldn’t find a nice place or a park to hang out there. So I felt stressed there compared to calm and pretty Olinda. I like more the neighbourhood of Boa Viagem.. even if it’s very modern, it’s much calmer!

At night I had a dinner with my host again, we did a brazilian couscous with hot vegetables. :)

The bridge between the islands

The bridge between the islands

San Francisco church I think

San Francisco church I think

On of the central park in Recife

On of the central park in Recife

Basilica Nossa senhora do carmo

Basilica Nossa senhora do carmo

Church... Igreja do Pratos? Don't know really

Church… Igreja do Pratos? Don’t know really

People waiting for the bus

People waiting for the bus

Dinner with José. Haha, He had just put in a spoon before the photo went off, and he said "I think I did a face, the food was so hot!" hahaha

Dinner with José. Haha, He had just put in a spoon before the photo went off, and he said ”I think I did a face, the food was so hot!” hahaha

 

I was leaving the afternoon next day, and my host works from like 7.30. So I woke up early and did some breakfast (he usually don’t have time to eat it in the morning even if he wants to). Super nice. I really feel at home at his apartment and I got the keys to it even before I met him haha. So then we said good bye and he left for work.

I visited the ”Oficina de Ceramica Francisco Brennand”. It wasn’t that easy to get there – It took about 1,5 hours and a few bus-changes and then had to take a taxi the last kilometers, because the museum is sort of in the middle of a forest outside the city.

These four guys welcomes you to the museum

These four guys welcomes you to the museum

Francisco Brennand is a famous contemporary sculpture artist in Brazil. His studio is set in an old ceramic tile factory that belonged to his father Ricardo. It’s a huge house with a studio, workshop, a gallery with his paintings and a museum of the sculptures he does.  Really impressive!!

”Visitors traveling down Recife to the famous atelier are experiencing a dreamlike trip into a strange world.  While there the visitors can take note that the studio is divided into two sections, the indoor and the outdoor.  The courtyard is where you walk through a footpath enclosed by a Romanesque arcade leading to the outdoor section filled with sculptures.  At the end of this area is the indoor section where a temple like structure can be found.  The structure has a dome ceiling.  ”

Very impressive courtyard

Very impressive courtyard

The walls

The walls

Nice sculpture

Nice sculpture

The courtyard and part of the fountain

The courtyard and part of the fountain

The courtyard and big butts. Te gusta Duilio? ;)

The courtyard and big butts. Te gusta Duilio? ;)

 

The fantastic Francisco Brennand museum

The fantastic Francisco Brennand museum

It really is one of its kind!.. really remarkable!  The museum with over 2000 pieces which all are different from each other and the gallery with his paintings and also his tile work is very impressive and very unique. There is everything from symbols to animals to butts to people to penises.. haha.

One of the rooms filled with sculptures

One of the rooms filled with sculptures

A hall with ceramic paintings

A hall with ceramic paintings

Love the small white tiles with black dots, looks like skulls.

Love the small white tiles with black dots, looks like skulls.

The factory where they make wall tiles

The factory where they make wall tiles

Cool special faces. Reminds me of långa farbrorn!

Cool special faces. Reminds me of långa farbrorn!

The marx park, designed by famous desginer Marx with Brennand scupltures

The marx park, designed by famous desginer Marx with Brennand scupltures

After the museum I got back to the neighbourhood Boa Viagem, had lunch and then packed my back and got to the Rodoviaria.

Good bye lovely room :(

Good bye lovely room :(

Bye bye Recife, hello Salvador!

 

Annonser

Visiting charming Olinda – oh! Linda!

Woke up around 7.30 after a really good nights sleep. I have such a great bed, it’s so big, but the best thing are the pillows – perfectly fluffy! Haha. Yeah, I’m couchsurfing again, in Recife, with a lovely host, José. I will tell you more about him and Recife in another post, this one will be about Olinda :)

Olinda
 is about 7 km north of Recife in the north-eastern Brazilian state of Pernambuco. There are direct buses from Recife there for about 3 reails.

When I arrived a city guide met me up and asked if I wanted a guided tour. It’s ”free”– you give what you want after the tour.. And my guide was so nice, walked around with me a couple of hours telling me so much, so to give to little is very hard face to face. Haha. But yeah, when you think about it, maybe it’s not so much to give around 15 dollars.. But still it wasn’t planned expenses.

The Olinda faculty. Lovely buolding!

The Olinda faculty. Lovely building!

The only dutch house here!

The only dutch house in Olinda!

Vlamir, my guide, is born and raised in Olinda, and has been working as a guide since he was 10 years old :) So I would guess about 20 years now. He told me this city is very famous because it’s carnival – it’s said to be the best in Brazil.. (I don’t know if this is the general opinion though), but it’s very famous though :)

Olinda is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It’s one of the oldest towns in Brazil.

For being such a small town, at least the historical center, it has surprisingly many churches!

Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo

Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo

Convento São Francisco

Convento São Francisco

Igreja Nossa Senhora do Amparo

Igreja Nossa Senhora do Amparo

Igreja Nossa Senhora da Graça

Igreja Nossa Senhora da Graça

Igreja da Sé in Alto da Sé. This was the first church built in Brazil, built in 1540 and was briefly a Protestant church during the Dutch occupation in the 17th century.

Igreja da Sé in Alto da Sé. This was the first church built in Brazil, built in 1540. All the other churches faces this church, which is the main church.

View from the hill, all the churches facing

View from Igreja da Sé, you see all the churches are facing the hill (alto da Sé)

It was founded in 1537 by the Portuguese. From the 16th century onward, many churches and convents were built. But then in 1631 the city was pillaged by the Dutch and they destroyed almost everything.  About 25 years later the Portuguese returned and started to restore, so now most of the buildings at Olinda date from the 18th century.

The scenery is beautiful – it’s a colonial architecture so there are small houses in many colors, together with a lot of flowers and trees. From the hills in Olinda you also see the blue-turquoise water.. really beautiful!

Olinda’s is a calm and safe place to walk around, a nice breeze compared to the hectic Recife.

Street, trees and worker.

Street, trees and worker.

Colors!!

Colors!!

Colonial Olinda and further away, modern Recife

Colonial Olinda and further away, modern Recife

One of the streets in Olinda. Hills!

One of the streets in Olinda. Hills!

Olinda

Olinda

There are many artist and craftspeople studies and galleries to visit here too, and markets to have tapioca, coco-water or ice-cream. :)

Oh by the way I forgot to tell you why the name is Olinda – it’s said that when the Portuguese arrived to the Hill in Alto da Sé, and saw the view over the town, they said ”Oh, linda situação para se construir uma vila!” (in portuguese, oh, beautiful place to build a village!)

 

Hello from Alto do Sé :)

Oh, linda view from the hill Alto do Sé :)

Definitively worth a visit :)